HAIR EXTENSION BEAD BASICS

two bead secrets

You must get right to ensure the best installation experience for every single client.

They look very similar, don't they?

The differences between 2mm and 3mm and silicone vs non-silicone are subtle, but they do make a big difference when you are working with real world clients.

The key to a no-slip installation is the fullness of the bead which is determined before crimping it into place. The client's thickness and density will determine your bead size.

A bead that will have a tip inserted into the bead will need to be at least HALF full of natural hair before the bond is inserted. A bead used for row creation will need to be 2/3RDS full of natural hair since nothing else will be inserted to take up the space.

Silicone lining can help make that exact amount less strict. It gives cushion to the interior of the bead and makes the accuracy of the fullness less critical.

When crimped, the soft silicone will squish out of the way as much as its needed to. Because of this, silicone beads are less prone to slipping. However, silicone beads are bulkier to accommodate the liner.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

Unlined beads are more discreet.
Silicone beads have better grip.

The BEST bead will depend on your client's hair and your individual preferences. Let's explore some uses.

2mm Unlined Beads

Use to create base rows
Use with 2mm I-tip strands.
Recommended for NBR method.
For normal hair density.

2mm Silicone Beads

Use for rows on thin hair.
Great for delicate strands.
Not recommended for I-tips.
Use for fine density hair.

3mm Unlined Beads

Use for rows on thick hair.
Use with 3mm I-tips.
Use for normal to thick hair.

3mm Silicone Beads

Best size to create rows quickly.
Not recommended for I-tips.
Recommended for IBE method.
Great for most hair types.

Enamel Coating

Beware of bargain beads that use thin, flakey paints that leave clients with silver eyesores. We use high quality enamels that flex and minimizes chips from abuse. Our matte colors eliminate glare and give your installations a competitive advantage.

Metal Composition

Other brands of beads are created with metals that can oxidize and stain fragile blonde hair. We utilize nickel and allergen-free metals known for their durability. Our beads will never rust, oxidize or discolor your client's extensions.

Closing Tool

Avoid closers with ridges. Ridges cause chipping and cracking of the bead coating which can leave your client with silver attachments. Our smooth interior closers don't have ridges and won't mar your beads. Our closers fit close to the scalp for a snug installation.

Opening Tool

What goes in, must come out. Other brands of openers can mangle beads into shapes that refuse to open, leaving you with beads that need to be cut out. Our openers, designed by professional stylists, pop beads back into original shape with minimal effort.

BEADED ROW HAIR EXTENSIONS

Your row style will depend on your client's goals and the time behind the chair.

Beaded rows are used to install wefted hair extensions. There are many styles of beaded rows and each method has its own pros and cons. We will explore a few below.

Wrapped Beads

Significant prep work is done to sew wefts together in advance. Wefts are parted at installation (one up and one down). A bead is inserted through the seam, then the natural hair is looped through.

Pros: Hides beads and rows well.

Cons: Puts pressure on small amounts of hair. Gaps between beads cause slack. Can be difficult to remove.

Natural Beaded Rows

Beads are added to the natural hair along with a line of thread to create a base track. Hair is then sewn onto this track.

Pros: Minimal prep work. Quick installation and removal.

Cons: Prone to slippage. Extra care is needed to prevent matting of the natural hair (hair can slide underneath the row between beads) Gaps also cause sagging of rows. Does not blend well with shorter hair.

Waterfall Rows

Beads are added to the natural hair in a back flowing direction. Only about half the hair in one section is used to connect to the next bead, leading to a "waterfall" effect. Hair is then sewn onto this track.

Pros: Minimal prep work. Creates a stable base row.

Cons: Prone to slippage with single-direction beads. Creates a loose center section that can be difficult to keep tightened over time. Center often hangs low.

Locked and Loaded Rows

Hair is pulled through and around the extension weft. Beads are installed under the weft and crimped shut.

Pros: Quick. Minimal effort.

Cons: Beads must be spaced close together. Hair is installed upwards, which can lead to hair being too tight when laid flat. It can also create a large hair bump at the roots. Cannot be used with hand tied wefts. Weft stitching must be thick enough to pull hair through, which relies on few weft options. Weft corners are difficult to secure and are prone to lifting.

STEP ONE

A base row is created with hair criss-crossing through beads. A linking row creates one solid stable base.

STEP TWO

Any style of weft can be sewn to this row (hand tied, machine, seamless etc). A hand tied panel bound with light thread is used for context. Corners are secured.

STEP THREE

Stitch completely and secure the thread. This no-slip method holds securely for the life of the style.

PROS AND CONS

The best method for client satisfaction.

Pros: The most stable base - no slipping. The base row does not contain gaps between beads - hair cannot mat under the row. The base row evenly distributes the pressure - no tiny points to cause irritation or break. Corners do not lift, they feel flush and stable. Grow out remains even and consistent, styling remains easy.

Cons: Slightly longer install time (about 3 hours with finish work).

I TIP HAIR EXTENSIONS

I tips methods also use microbeads. Beads should be as dark or darker than the root color of the natural hair. Hair tips are sized to match bead size - 2 or 3mm. 3mm is most common and preferred by most stylists. Clients like the comfort of I tip installations because unlike rows, tips can move in any direction at the root.

STEP ONE

Using a special threader, pull a bead onto the natural hair.

STEP TWO

Insert the I tip extension strand and crimp into place.

STEP THREE

Ensure comfort by eliminating crosshairs and sectioning appropriately.

Silicone Lined Beads

Rules can be broken. However, silicone beads are going to create more bulk at the base than an unlined bead. Use unlined beads and darker colors for discreetness.

Time to Tighten Up

When beads are a size too large for your client, you will need a larger amount of base hair to fill the bead to prevent slipping. When in doubt, size down.

Strive for Invisibility

The best installations use darker attachments and well angled, tidy sections. Correctly sized beads create flawless hair extension installations.

CREATIVE ACCENTS

Microbeads can be used in a variety of ways - adding temporary accent colors, highlighting with hair tinsel, unique designs like lattice work or anchoring bridal veils & hair jewelry on your client's big day!

compare-3mm-and-5.5mm-microbead-ring size

larger beads

Unlined 3mm and 5.5mm beads are the perfect choice for creative accents.

3mm are used to create lattice work or insert highlight tips. 5.5mm are used for creating chunkier highlights and holding larger additions, like ribbons or feathers.

shop 5.5mm Linkies